Collecting Rainwater for Gardens: Complete Beginner’s Guide to Free Garden Water

Have you ever watched rainwater rush down your gutters and thought, “My garden could use that water”? Or maybe you’ve cringed at your summer water bill, knowing half of it went to keeping your tomatoes alive?

You’re not alone. Every time it rains, thousands of gallons of perfectly good water run off our roofs and down the street. Meanwhile, our gardens sit there thirsty, waiting for us to turn on the expensive tap.

Here’s the good news: You can start collecting free rainwater today. And no, it’s not complicated or expensive.

In fact, you can begin for absolutely zero dollars. Just grab a bucket and stick it under your roof. Done. You’re now a rainwater harvester.

Of course, you can also get fancier. Rain barrels. Multiple barrels connected together. Even full systems with pumps and automatic watering. The choice is yours.

This guide will show you everything. From the simplest bucket setup to professional multi-barrel systems. You’ll learn what you need, how much it costs, and how to avoid the mistakes beginners make.

Ready to stop wasting that free water falling from the sky? Let’s get started.

The Three Big Questions (Myths Busted)

Before we dive into the how-to, let’s clear up the three questions everyone asks. These myths stop people from even trying.

Question #1: “Isn’t Rainwater Collection Illegal?”

Short answer: No. It’s legal almost everywhere in the United States.

This myth drives me crazy. Yes, there have been some viral stories about people getting in trouble. But these are extremely rare exceptions, not the rule.

The truth? Most states encourage rainwater collection. Some even offer rebates to help you buy rain barrels. Cities in California, Texas, and Florida actually provide financial help for people who harvest rainwater.

The two states with restrictions:

• Colorado: You can collect from residential roofs (up to 110 gallons storage). Older laws were stricter, but they changed.
• Utah: You can collect with some permit requirements in certain areas.

That’s it. Forty-eight states have zero restrictions for residential rainwater collection for garden use.

How to check your local laws:

• Search “[Your city] rainwater collection ordinance”
• Call your city’s planning department
• Check HOA rules if you have one (they sometimes have opinions)

Reality check: If you’re just collecting water for your garden (not for drinking), you’ll almost never have issues. Cities care about large-scale diversions that affect water rights. Your three rain barrels? Not even on their radar.

Question #2: “Will I Actually Collect Enough Water to Matter?”

Short answer: Yes. Even in dry climates.

People in deserts tell me, “We only get 10 inches of rain per year. That’s nothing.” Actually, that’s a lot more than you think.

Let’s do the math:

A modest 1,000 square foot roof in a place that gets just 10 inches of rain per year will collect about 6,000 gallons. That’s not a typo. Six thousand gallons from just 10 inches of rain.

The simple formula:
Roof area (sq ft) × Rainfall (inches) × 0.62 = Gallons collected

Example for a typical house (1,200 sq ft roof):

• 1 inch of rain = 750 gallons
• 10 inches/year = 7,500 gallons
• 30 inches/year = 22,500 gallons
• 50 inches/year (rainy areas) = 37,500 gallons

Even if you only capture half of that (because your barrel fills up), you’re still talking about thousands of free gallons.

How much does a garden need?

A 100 square foot vegetable garden needs about 60 gallons per week in summer. That’s roughly 250 gallons per month during peak growing season.

So even in the desert, your roof can collect enough water to make a real difference.

Question #3: “Isn’t It Complicated and Expensive?”

Short answer: Only if you make it that way.

You can spend $0 or $5,000. Your choice. Most people spend between $50 and $200 and get excellent results.

The simplest possible start:
Find any clean container. Place it under where water drips from your roof. Wait for rain. Use the water. Total cost: $0. Total time: 2 minutes.

From there, you can add rain barrels, connect multiple barrels, install pumps, or build elaborate systems. But you don’t have to. You can stay simple and still collect hundreds of gallons.

The beauty of rainwater collection is that you start where you are and grow from there.

How Much Water Can You Really Collect?

Let’s get specific about your roof and your garden.

Your Roof is a Giant Water Collector

Every square foot of roof is working for you. During a 1-inch rainstorm:

• 500 sq ft roof = 310 gallons
• 1,000 sq ft roof = 620 gallons
• 1,500 sq ft roof = 930 gallons
• 2,000 sq ft roof = 1,240 gallons

Most houses have between 1,000 and 2,000 square feet of roof. Even small sheds and garages have 200-500 square feet.

How to measure your roof:
You don’t need to climb up there. Just measure the footprint of your building (length × width). That’s close enough for planning.

Matching Collection to Your Garden

Small container garden (10-20 pots):
Needs about 10-20 gallons per week. One 55-gallon rain barrel can supply 3-4 weeks of watering.

Medium vegetable garden (100-200 sq ft):
Needs about 60-120 gallons per week in summer. Two to three rain barrels give you backup supply.

Large garden (500+ sq ft):
Needs 300+ gallons per week in peak summer. You’ll want multiple large barrels or IBC totes (275 gallons each).

Realistic expectations:
Rainwater works best as a supplement to your regular water, not a complete replacement (unless you have huge storage). But even supplementing cuts your water bill and keeps plants happier.

Three Starting Points (Choose Your Level)

Here’s where you choose your adventure. Pick the level that matches your situation.

LEVEL 1: Free Start ($0-$25)

Perfect for:

• Renters who can’t modify the property
• People testing the idea before investing
• Small gardens or container plants
• Anyone with minimal storage space

What you need:

• Any clean containers (5-gallon buckets, plastic totes, clean trash cans)
• Place them under roof drip lines
• Add window screen over the top (rubber band or bungee cord)
• Use water within one week

My friend Sarah started this way. She’s a renter with a small patio garden. She put three 5-gallon buckets under her patio roof overhang. After one good rain, she had 15 gallons of water. That watered her container tomatoes and herbs for two weeks.

Pros:
Zero investment. Start immediately. Fully portable if you move. Learn the basics risk-free.

Cons:
Small capacity. Manual watering only. Need to empty frequently (mosquito prevention).

Bottom line: This is the “dip your toe in” option. If you like it, upgrade later. If not, you spent nothing.

LEVEL 2: Basic Rain Barrel System ($50-$150)

Perfect for:

• Homeowners with gutters
• Established gardens needing regular water
• People ready to commit but not go crazy

What you need:

• One 55-gallon rain barrel ($40-$100)
• Downspout diverter kit ($10-$30)
• Overflow hose (often included)
• Spigot (usually built into barrel)

How it works:
The diverter connects to your existing gutter downspout. When it rains, water flows from the gutter into your barrel. When the barrel fills, overflow goes back to the regular downspout path.

Setup time: About 2-3 hours for your first one. After that, you can add more barrels in under an hour each.

Pros:
Holds enough water to be useful. Easy to access with spigot. Looks intentional (not just buckets everywhere). Can connect a hose for easier watering.

Cons:
Limited to 55 gallons unless you add more. Requires some basic DIY skills. Needs a level base and proper placement.

Real story: When I added my first rain barrel, I was shocked how fast it filled. One moderate rainstorm (maybe 20 minutes of steady rain) and it was full. I realized I needed more storage, so I added a second barrel connected to the first. Now they fill together.

LEVEL 3: Multi-Barrel System ($200-$500+)

Perfect for:

• Serious gardeners with large plots
• People with multiple garden areas
• Anyone wanting a long-term water independence setup

What you need:

• Multiple 55-gallon barrels OR 275-gallon IBC totes
• Barrel connector kits (hoses that link barrels)
• Elevated platform (for water pressure)
• First-flush diverter (routes dirty first rain away)
• Optional: Pump for hose pressure or irrigation

The IBC tote advantage:
These huge plastic tanks (275 gallons) cost around $100-$150 used. That’s five times the capacity of a rain barrel for only double the price. They’re bulky but incredibly efficient.

Pros:
Massive storage. Can water all summer from spring rains. Can add pumps for automated irrigation. Professional-quality results.

Cons:
Higher upfront cost. Takes more space. Requires decent DIY skills or hiring help. Heavy when full (over 2,000 pounds for 275 gallons).

Finding Your Rainwater Collection Spots

Before you buy anything, walk outside during the next rain. Seriously. Put on a raincoat and go watch where water flows.

What to look for:

Heavy drip lines:
Places where water pours off your roof in sheets. These are gold mines. One well-placed barrel here beats three barrels in slow-drip areas.

Existing gutters:
Obvious spots, but check the end of every downspout. Could each one feed a barrel?

Secondary structures:
Don’t forget sheds, garages, carports, patios, or even large pergolas. Any roof surface collects water.

Erosion patterns:
See little ditches washed into the ground? That’s where heavy water flow happens. Prime collection territory.

Urban balconies:
Even apartments can collect! Water rolls off the balcony above yours or from patio overhangs. Use smaller containers (5-10 gallons) perfect for container gardens.

Essential Equipment Explained Simply

Let’s break down what each piece actually does. No confusing jargon.

Collection Containers (Where the Water Lives)

55-gallon rain barrels:
The most popular option. They’re the right size—big enough to matter, small enough to manage. Usually have a spigot at the bottom and a screened top opening.

Look for: Food-grade plastic (says so on label), opaque or dark-colored (stops algae growth), built-in overflow, and a spigot you can attach a hose to.

275-gallon IBC totes:
Industrial containers used for bulk liquids. You can find them used for $100-$150 (food-grade only—ask what was stored in them). They have a metal cage around them and a big valve at the bottom.

Pros: Huge capacity, very durable, great value. Cons: Take up lots of space, heavy when full, industrial-looking (you can build wooden surrounds to make them prettier).

Trash cans (30-50 gallons):
Budget option. New ones cost $20-$40. Get ones with lids. You’ll need to drill a hole near the bottom for a spigot (hardware store sells spigot kits for $8).

Downspout Diverters (The Smart Switch)

This simple device connects to your existing gutter downspout. It diverts water to your barrel when it’s available. When the barrel is full, water automatically goes back down the normal downspout.

Cost: $10-$30
Installation: Usually just clamps on, requires cutting your downspout (most kits include everything you need).

Think of it like a smart switch that says, “Barrel empty? Fill it. Barrel full? Send water to the street like normal.”

Screens and Filters (Keeping Junk Out)

Purpose: Keep leaves, bugs, birds, and mosquitoes out of your water.

Top screen: Goes over the barrel opening. Use 1/8-inch mesh or finer. This is your mosquito barrier.

First-flush diverter: More advanced. It catches the first gallon or two of rain (the dirtiest water) and diverts it away. The cleaner water after that goes into your barrel. Cost: $30-$50. Worth it if you care about water quality.

DIY option: Cut a piece of window screen and secure it with a bungee cord. Works fine for basic setups.

Overflow Management (Critical—Don’t Skip This)

Every container must have an overflow outlet. When it rains hard, your barrel fills in minutes. Where does the extra water go?

Without overflow: Water backs up, floods, or damages your foundation.

With overflow: Excess water routes safely away via a hose or pipe.

Placement: Direct overflow at least 6 feet away from your house foundation. Better yet, direct it to:

• Perennial flower beds
• Trees or shrubs
• A rain garden (depression that absorbs water)
• A second barrel (daisy-chain style)

Step-by-Step Setup Guide

Let’s get hands-on. Here’s exactly how to set up each level.

Level 1 Setup: Bucket System (15 Minutes)

Step 1: Find clean containers. Food-grade is ideal, but any clean bucket or tote works.

Step 2: Place under roof drip line (the spot where water pours off). No gutters needed. The eave of your roof creates natural drip lines.

Step 3: Cut a piece of screen (window screen or mesh) to cover the opening. Secure with a rubber band or bungee cord.

Step 4: Wait for rain.

Step 5: Use water within 7 days. Pour it on your garden. Empty completely before the next rain.

Why 7 days? Mosquitoes need 7-14 days to go from egg to adult. If you use water weekly, you’ll never breed mosquitoes.

Level 2 Setup: Single Rain Barrel (2-3 Hours)

Step 1: Choose your spot. Barrel should be:

• Near a downspout
• On level ground
• Accessible for filling watering cans
• Where overflow can drain safely

Step 2: Create a base. Stack two or three cinder blocks, or build a simple wooden platform. Elevating the barrel 12-18 inches gives you better water pressure at the spigot.

Step 3: Install the downspout diverter.

• Cut your downspout where the diverter will go (measure carefully—kit has instructions)
• Attach diverter pieces to the cut sections
• Connect diverter to barrel with the flexible hose included

Step 4: Attach overflow hose to the barrel’s overflow port (usually near the top).

Step 5: Direct overflow away from your foundation (6+ feet).

Step 6: Add screen to the top opening where the diverter hose enters.

Step 7: Test it! Run water from a hose down the gutter to simulate rain. Watch it flow into the barrel. Check for leaks. Verify overflow works.

Common mistake: Forgetting to create a stable base. A 55-gallon barrel full of water weighs over 400 pounds. Soft ground = sinking barrel = tipping disaster.

Level 3 Setup: Multi-Barrel System (Half Day)

Step 1: Set up your first barrel exactly as described above.

Step 2: Position your second barrel next to the first at the exact same height. This is important for water to flow between them.

Step 3: Connect the barrels using a linking kit. These kits have hoses and fittings that connect the barrels at the bottom. Water will flow from one to the other, filling both evenly.

Alternatively: Use the overflow method. The first barrel’s overflow hose feeds into the top of the second barrel.

Step 4: Make sure the last barrel in your chain has overflow directed safely away.

Step 5 (Optional): Add a pump. If you want hose pressure or irrigation, a small pump (costs $50-$150) connects to your barrel and pressurizes the water. Solar-powered options exist.

Step 6: Test the whole system. Watch a barrel fill and overflow into the next one. Check all connections for drips.

Preventing Problems Before They Start

Let’s tackle the four main worries people have.

Mosquito Prevention (The #1 Concern)

Everyone asks this. Here’s the truth: Mosquitoes are easy to prevent.

Method 1: Screen everything
Use 1/8-inch mesh screen over every opening. Mosquitoes can’t get in to lay eggs. Done.

Method 2: Use it quickly
If you’re doing the bucket method, empty containers every 5-7 days. Mosquitoes take 7-14 days to mature from egg to adult. No time to breed.

Method 3: Mosquito dunks
These little disks float in your water. They contain Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis), a bacteria that kills mosquito larvae but is totally safe for plants, pets, and humans. One dunk lasts 30 days and costs about $1.

Method 4: Goldfish
For open containers (not recommended for drinking water systems), a couple of goldfish eat mosquito larvae. Cheap, natural, effective.

Reality check: I’ve collected rainwater for years. Properly screened barrels have never produced a single mosquito. It’s easier to prevent than people think.

Algae Control (The Green Water Issue)

Does algae hurt anything? Not for garden use. Algae is basically liquid fertilizer. But it looks gross and can clog small openings.

Prevention:

Use opaque barrels. Algae needs light. Dark barrels = no light = no algae. If you have clear containers, wrap them or paint them.

Use the water regularly. Flowing, moving water doesn’t grow algae. Stagnant water does.

Clean annually. Once per year (early spring), dump out your barrels, scrub them with a brush, rinse well, and refill.

Keeping Water Clean

Your roof isn’t perfectly clean. Bird poop, dust, pollen, leaves—all that sits up there until rain washes it into your barrel.

Solution: First-flush diverter
This device catches the first gallon or two of rain (the dirtiest water that washes off the roof) and diverts it to the ground. The cleaner water after that goes to your barrel.

Alternative: After a long dry spell (weeks without rain), just let the first few minutes of rain wash down the regular downspout. Then connect your diverter.

Regular gutter cleaning: Clean gutters twice a year (spring and fall). Less debris in gutters = cleaner water in barrels.

Seasonal Maintenance Calendar

Let’s keep this super simple. Here’s what to do and when.

Spring (March-May):

• Reconnect barrels to downspouts
• Scrub out any winter gunk
• Check screens for holes
• Test system with a hose (pretend rain)

Summer (June-August):

• Use water regularly (prevents stagnation)
• Check for mosquito larvae (if you see wigglers, screen failed—fix it)
• Monitor overflow during sudden storms

Fall (September-November):

• Give garden one last big drink (trees and perennials need water before winter)
• Clean gutters (falling leaves)
• Start winterization in November if you’re in a cold climate

Winter (December-February):

• Cold climates (freezing temps): Empty completely. Disconnect. Store upside down or bring inside.
• Mild climates: Keep collecting! Winter rains fill barrels for spring use.

Why winterize in cold climates? Water expands when it freezes. Frozen water = cracked barrels = ruined equipment. Don’t learn this the expensive way.

Using Your Collected Rainwater

You’ve collected it. Now let’s use it.

Hand watering:
Fill a watering can from the spigot. This is what most people do. Simple, effective, relaxing.

Tip: Elevate your barrel so the spigot is at a comfortable height. Nothing worse than crouching low to fill a watering can.

Hose connection:
Attach a hose to the spigot. You’ll need the barrel elevated at least 2-3 feet to get decent pressure. The higher the barrel, the better the water pressure (gravity is your pump).

Gravity drip system:
Poke small holes in a soaker hose. Connect it to your elevated barrel. Water slowly seeps into your garden beds. Perfect for vacations or daily watering.

Pump system:
Add a small pump (submersible or external). Now you have real water pressure. You can use sprinklers, drip irrigation, or water uphill.

Which Plants Love Rainwater Most

All plants prefer rainwater to tap water. Here’s why:

• No chlorine (tap water has chlorine that can harm soil biology)
• Soft water (lower mineral content)
• Room temperature (cold tap water shocks plants)
• Slightly acidic (pH around 5.5-6.5, perfect for most plants)

Plants that especially benefit:

• Container plants (they need lots of water)
• Acid-loving plants (azaleas, blueberries, rhododendrons)
• Vegetables and herbs
• Young seedlings

When NOT to Use Rainwater

Edible crops close to harvest: If your roof is asphalt shingles (common), wait at least 3 weeks after watering before harvesting leafy greens. The first rain can wash roof residue onto plants.

Solution: Use rainwater on vegetables that won’t be harvested for weeks, or on non-edible plants.

For metal or tile roofs: You’re fine to use rainwater on everything.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Real problems. Real solutions.

Problem: My barrel fills up in 5 minutes, then overflows constantly.

Solution: You need more storage. Add another barrel connected to the first. Or create a rain garden where the overflow goes—a shallow depression with plants that absorb lots of water.

Problem: I’m not collecting much water.

Check these:

• Is your screen clogged with leaves?
• Is the diverter stuck or blocked?
• Does rain actually hit that part of your roof? (Check during the next storm)
• Is your barrel positioned correctly under the downspout?

Problem: Water smells bad or looks murky.

Cause: Organic matter (leaves, dead bugs) decomposing in the water.

Solution: Empty and scrub the barrel. Rinse well. Add a first-flush diverter to keep dirty water out. Use water more frequently.

Problem: Water pressure is really weak at the spigot.

Solution #1: Elevate the barrel higher. Every foot of height adds pressure.

Solution #2: Use a smaller diameter hose (3/8″ instead of 5/8″). Smaller = more pressure.

Solution #3: Add a pump. This gives you real pressure like a regular hose.

Problem: Barrel is leaking.

If it’s a crack: Small cracks can be sealed with silicone or epoxy. Large cracks mean it’s time for a new barrel.

If it’s the spigot: Tighten it. If that doesn’t work, remove it, add plumber’s tape to the threads, and reinstall.

Calculating Your Savings (Is It Worth It?)

Let’s talk money.

Water costs:
The average U.S. household pays about $1.50 per 1,000 gallons of water. That doesn’t sound like much. But:

• Summer rates are often 2-3× higher
• Drought surcharges add even more
• Some cities charge $5-$10 per 1,000 gallons

Example savings:

Scenario: You collect 2,000 gallons over a summer (very achievable with two barrels in a moderate climate).

At $3/1,000 gallons (typical summer rate): You save $6
At $6/1,000 gallons (drought pricing): You save $12
At $10/1,000 gallons (expensive city): You save $20

Plus: Your plants are healthier (rainwater is better), so you replace fewer dead plants. That’s hard to calculate but it’s real savings.

Payback period:

• Level 1 (buckets—$0): Instant. It’s free.
• Level 2 (one barrel—$100): About 2-4 years depending on your water rates.
• Level 3 (multi-barrel—$300): About 3-5 years.

Intangible benefits:

• Water independence during droughts or restrictions
• Teaching kids about water conservation
• Knowing you’re doing something good for the environment
• The satisfaction of free water

Urban and Small-Space Solutions

Don’t have a big yard? No problem.

Apartment balconies:
Use 5-10 gallon containers. Collect from the balcony above or patio roof. Perfect for container tomatoes, herbs, and flowers.

Check your lease first. Most landlords won’t care about a few small containers. But ask to avoid issues.

Townhouses and condos:
A single decorative rain barrel often flies under the HOA radar. Make it look intentional. Plant flowers around it.

No gutters?
Place containers directly under roof drip lines (the edge where water pours off). Use tarps or large pieces of metal roofing propped at an angle to funnel water into containers.

Tiny yards:
Slim-profile barrels exist. They’re only 12-18 inches wide but 4-5 feet tall. Same capacity, smaller footprint.

First-Timer Mistakes (Learn from Others)

Mistake #1: Not elevating the barrel

Water pressure comes from gravity. A barrel sitting on the ground gives you a sad trickle. Raise it 12-24 inches and filling your watering can goes from frustrating to easy.

Mistake #2: Forgetting overflow

Every single barrel MUST have overflow. I cannot stress this enough. A sudden storm fills your barrel in minutes. Without overflow, water backs up and can damage your foundation.

Mistake #3: Using barrels that stored chemicals

Buy food-grade barrels. Used barrels are cheap, but if they held pesticides or industrial chemicals, you’ll contaminate your garden. Always ask what was stored in used barrels.

Mistake #4: Placing on soft ground

A 55-gallon barrel full of water weighs 450+ pounds. Soft soil = sinking barrel = eventual tip-over. Create a stable base with paving stones, concrete blocks, or a wooden platform.

Mistake #5: Not cleaning gutters first

Years of roof debris wash into your barrel with the first rain. Clean gutters before connecting your system.

Mistake #6: Ignoring winter prep

In cold climates, forgetting to empty barrels before the first freeze cracks them. I learned this lesson when I lost a $75 barrel.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How much does a rain barrel cost?
New rain barrels cost $40-$150 depending on size and features. Used 55-gallon food-grade barrels are often $15-$30. You can also find free containers if you ask around (restaurants, food processors).

Q: Do I need a permit to collect rainwater?
Almost never for small residential systems (1-4 barrels). Check your city’s website or call the planning department to be sure.

Q: How do I keep mosquitoes out?
Screen all openings with 1/8″ mesh. Or use mosquito dunks (Bti disks). Or empty containers every 5-7 days.

Q: Can I drink collected rainwater?
Not from a basic system. For drinking, you need filtration and purification (beyond the scope of this article). For gardens? Rainwater is perfect as-is.

Q: How long can I store rainwater?
In sealed, opaque containers, rainwater stays good for 1-2 weeks without treatment. Add mosquito dunks and it lasts months.

Q: What do I do with rainwater in winter?
Cold climates: Empty and store barrels. Mild climates: Keep collecting—winter rains fill your barrels for spring.

Q: Can I water my vegetable garden with rainwater?
Yes! It’s actually better than tap water. Just wait 3+ weeks between watering and harvesting leafy greens if you have an asphalt roof.

Q: How do I connect multiple rain barrels?
Use barrel connector kits (sold online for $15-$30). They have hoses and fittings that link barrels at the bottom so they fill together.

Q: What if I don’t have gutters?
Place containers directly under roof drip lines. Or install gutters—it’s easier than you think, and DIY kits cost $100-$200.

Q: Is rainwater really better for plants than tap water?
Yes. No chlorine, softer (fewer minerals), slightly acidic (most plants prefer this), and room temperature. Your plants will thank you.

Your Rainwater Journey Starts Now

Let’s bring this home.

You’ve learned that rainwater collection is:

• Legal (almost everywhere)
• Affordable (start for $0, go up from there)
• Simple (as easy as placing a bucket)
• Effective (even small roofs collect thousands of gallons per year)

Here’s your action plan:

This week:
Go outside during the next rain. Watch where water flows. Find your best collection spots.

This month:
Choose your level. Start with buckets (free), buy a rain barrel (invest $50-$100), or plan a multi-barrel system (budget $200-$500).

This season:
Collect your first 100 gallons. Water your garden with free rainwater. Watch your plants thrive.

This year:
Expand your system. Add more storage. Maybe add a pump. Perfect your setup.

Remember: Every drop you collect is a drop you don’t pay for. Every gallon is one less gallon pulled from stressed rivers or underground aquifers. Every rain barrel is a small act of independence.

Your roof is already collecting water. Why let it run down the street when your garden is right there waiting?

The best time to start was last rain. The second-best time is the next rain.

Go set up that first bucket. Your garden will thank you.